Aurica
I’m so glad I didn’t fall in love with this fragrance – at £825 for 100ml, I was open to splashing out to buy it (if indeed I loved it) so luckily I don’t, but it is very interesting…
‘Aurica’ was created in celebration of the Chinese New Year of the rat. It is said that those born in the year of the rat are energetic, optimistic, sensitive but stubborn. ‘Aurica’ is similarly described as “a sweet and gentle pure parfum” that’s “full of intent and ambition” which will “leave your skin tingling with expectancy.” So let’s see just how cunning and spirited ‘Aurica’ really is…
It opens as a complex, sweet and fruity fragrance. It’s so intensely fruity-sweet, that I find it a touch too cloying to start with. I’m immediately reminded of Ramon Monegal’s ‘Ole!’ as it shares a very similar, overwhelming fruitiness that’s dominated by pineapple, with a comparable use of flowery jasmine with woods on an equally sweet vanilla and musk base. But ‘Aurica’ is next level perfumery, so for £825 you expect it to be all-singing, all-dancing. So am I blown-away? Not quite.
After the overbearing, fruity-sweet opening passes, the scent quickly gains refinement as it composes itself against the skin. There’s no poopy oud, this Cambodian oud is sophisticated, woody and wise. The bitter-green tagete with the refreshingly sharp cedar needles work well with the calming vetiver, moss and sandalwood. Although the tagete (marigold), ylang-ylang and jasmine are present, this fragrance isn’t about the florals - they take a back-seat to allow the pineapple and all that’s in the base to dominate. Now it’s here in the mesmeric base that I like this fragrance the most - it reveals a resinous amber with musk, but there’s something marine lurking mysteriously in the background. I can’t work out where it’s coming from, but this salty marine accord is so deliciously savoury (almost like there’s ambergris here.) I love this sensual part of this fragrance’s journey. From ultra-sweet to delectably savoury, I’m pleased this fragrance has transitioned, but the pineapple remains ever-present throughout.
‘Aurica’ is an intoxicating, ultra-luxurious, fruity and complex scent. Is it worth £825? Probably not, but if you love something (and can afford it) then why not – you can’t help which fragrance you fall in love with.
TOP – Pineapple, Cedar Needles, Ylang-Ylang, Mandarin Orange
MIDDLE – Marigold (Tagete), Cambodian Oud, Rose, Jasmine
BASE - Vetiver, Vanilla, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Moss, Amber, Musk