Oudh Infini
“Inspired by the exotic adventure and discovery, conjuring an aura of mystery resonant with sensual Rose de Mai. An irresistible new oudh accord with a rich, rare and exhilarating fragrance.”
So what is this “irresistible new oudh”? Well, Laotian oud (from Laos in Southeast Asia) gives a more ruby-red colour, with a slightly less viscous texture than Cambodian, Thai or Assam varieties of oud (it has a similar texture to Vietnamese oud). It has a more pronounced dark tanned leather aroma, with a balsamic smoky sweetness with mild florals, mint and chestnut notes. Loatian oud starts off with a deep leather aroma, which develops a rich fruit phase of exotic cherries, before developing into a phase of old decaying wood, mulch and green earth, then finally into a dry-down of powdery woods.
It does give animal waste nuances in the opening (I know you’re wondering) but only for the first 5 minutes, and nowhere near as stern, challenging and uncompromising as Indian (Hindi) oud. It shares more similarities with Cambodian oud as it’s sweeter, earthier, fruitier and more woody. But Loatian Oud embodies woods from a decaying jungle, with darker, nutrient rich soils of a stronger mulch. It still has a medicinal note, as there’s a cresol aroma (a compound found in coal-tar disinfectant) which some describe as a “band-aid” smell. So all-in-all, it’s a very exciting new oud to discover.
But before you intrigued oud lovers rush to buy this exotic unicorn fragrance, you’d do well to know what else is going on in this unique blend. And what better accompaniment to oud, then Rose de Mai? Here it glides its velvety petals seamlessly through the leathery oud, to only give subtilties of a delicate rose. Understand that it’s primarily a white floral-oud rather than the much overdone rose-oud combo. The Tunisian Orange Blossom comes across as lily-of-the-valley on my skin (which is gorgeous) whilst the world’s most comforting Indian-style sandalwood (along with benzoin) brings smooth-sweet peace ‘n’ zen to what could potentially be a clash of unsynchronised orchestral notes. The musk and civet in the base help to funk-up this otherwise civilised party. And finally, the Madagascan vanilla acts as in almost inviable maître d’ to formally bring everything together.
The result is the majestic dry-down; an ultra buttery, smoother-than-a-babies-bottom, peachy-cream powdery oud, with an intensely meditative sandalwood and lily-of-the-valley glimmers of genius, in a never before realised scent. I’ve never known a sandalwood this mesmeric and transcendent - it’s enough to make you weep from its beauty, refinement and absolute uniqueness of grandeur. You now have full permission to aspire to owning this exquisite beauty (£395 for 50ml). This would be my signature if/when I can afford it and tops my list of Dusita favourites.
I recognise a continuity of soft femininity which runs throughout all of Dusita’s fragrances. I’m not saying they are NOT all crafted to be perfectly unisex (which of course they ARE), but each share the DNA of soft, sophisticated amiability, that never screams nor shouts and always carries itself with grace. This must come from the heart of their founder and creator Pissara Umavjani who blesses every creation with a wearable elegance, from which you can tell she has a kind heart and sweet soul. Even with what should be an audacious oud (with all of this terrifying talk of decay and animal waste) ‘Oudh Infini’ remains regal but unimposing, charming and enlightened.
‘Oudh Infini’ is Shangri-La scent splendour at its absolute best, and Pissara Umavjani is the greatest nose in modern perfumery. You’ve heard of a ‘blending queen’ when it comes to makeup? Well, she’s The Blending Queen of Perfumery. A masterpiece.
TOP – Laotian Oud, Rose de Mai, Tunisian Orange Blossom
MIDDLE – Benzoin, Sandalwood
BASE – Madagascar Vanilla, Musk, Civet